A guide to chaotic Kathmandu Nepal
A city of chaos, culture, and so much beauty. No trip to Nepal is complete without immersing yourself in everything this wild and busy city has to offer.
How to get there:
Getting to Kathmandu from the United States is a lengthy process. It is about halfway around the world, so you can fly either direction and it will take about the same amount of time. Popular routes to get there are through Singapore with Singapore Airlines, through Doha with Qatar Air, through Dubai with Emirates Air, or through Istanbul with Turkish Airline. Nepal is best for a longer trip since it does take so long to get there and travel within the country can be time consuming due to lack of infrastructure, but it is definetly worth the long journey.
Where to stay:
Thamel is the main tourist hub in Kathmandu and probably the best place to stay while you get your bearings or prepare for a larger adventure or trek or if you are just looking for somewhere with the most western ammenities. It has shops with everything you need, western restaurants when you get tired of Dahl Baht and is where most tours pick up. It does get loud and little overwhelming, but it is easy enough to tuck yourself into a nice courtyard or alley way or escape to a rooftop for some pece and quiet. If looking for somewhere a little outside the main hub, but still close to the city I recommend staying in Patan or Boudhanath. If you want something even more outside the city the ancient city of Bhaktapur or hillside towns of Nagarkot and Dhulikhel are great options.
What to eat:
Western Tandoori: a small indian place on the edge of Thamel cooking up amazing Naan and great flavored curries
Kathmandu Guest House restaurant & bar: An upscale Nepali food destination, their tali plate is fantastic and the quiet courtyard venue is a nice oasis. They also have great cocktails.
OR2K: on the second floor of a building in Thamel, a cozy place you sit on the floor, great for veggies and fresh foods that are hard to find in traditional Nepali cuisine.
The Roadhouse: A pizza and pasta place in Thamel for when you need some western style food, this place is an institution for people returning from treks and climbs and is always busy, so go early or be prepared to wait for a while
Cookie Walla: A hidden little dessert shop in the back alleys of Thamel, serves up unique ice cream sundays.
Cafe at the Garden of Dreams
Sam’s Bar: Cheap beer and popcorn, a fun place to hang out and read the walls, where climbers, trekkers and other travellers have left messages and signed their accomplishments. This spot is one of those Kathmandu instutions which is worth stopping by yourself.
Newari cultural center in Kirtipur: serves traditional Newari food and you can watch them make some of it. Come here for delicious food as well as a chance to learn about the culture. If you drink, the rice wine is a must try.
Yangling: Nepali food in Thamel popular with locals, so you know its dang good.
The best things to do in & around Kathmandu:
Visit the three Durbar Squares of the ancient Kingdoms:
The Kathmandu Valley used to be made up of three ancient kingdoms, Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. Each kingdom had its own Durbar Square made up of temples and each one is unique and beautiful in its own way. All are unique in their own way and I highly recommend visiting all three while you are in the area. Most have museums and the old King’s residences you can access while visiting. I recommend getting a guided tour at all of them, so you learn more about the history. Many of the old structures were damaged during the 2015 earthquake in Nepal especially in Bhaktapur. Over the years many of the temples and buildings have been restored, but you can still see wooden posts helping hold up walls and others tarped off while they work on putting them all back together.
See a Living Goddess (the Royal Kumari of Kathmandu):
At the Kathmandu Durbar Square you can go into a courtyard of one of the Kumari Ghar and if you are there at the right time you can get a glimpse of the living goddess. A young Nepali girl is selected from a nearby village to be the living Goddess. She comes out for you to get a view of a few times a day, although you are not allowed to take photos. It is an honor to see the Kumari and an interesting part of Nepali culture to witness.
Watch Nepali artisans in their craft at the pottery square in Bhaktapur:
A couple blocks from the Durbar Square in the ancient city of Bhaktapur is a square known as the pottery square, where there are many artisans spinning, drying, and selling their clay works. Just wandering around the square you can see the whole process and pick up a few handmade souvenirs.
Learn about Buddhism at Boudhanath Stupa:
Boudhanath is a giant Tibetan Buddha Stupa located in Kathmandu. Walk around the massive stupa taking in the sight and the culture. You can spin the prayer wheels and visit the temple next to the Stupa. You can go in just be sure to take your shoes off, or walk up to the roof of it for views. Around the stupa there are also many rooftop restaurants where you can get a high up view of the Stupa while you eat. It is an essential spot to at least drink a cup of coffee so you can really take in the sight for a few minutes and truly see the scale of the massive stupa below.
Visit Pashupatinath and witness the circle of life:
The most important holy site for Hindu’s in Nepal, there are open cremations along the river every day visitors can witness as well as visiting an important temple. I highly recommend having a guide, so that you can learn about the process and be sure you aren’t going anywhere you should not. It is fascinating and a truly special experience to sit along the river and watch the ongoing ceremonies and cremations. Give yourself a couple hours here, so you don’t feel rushed. There are also many ceremonies and celebrations that take place here throughout the year you can attend if they are happening, while you visit.
Take in culture and views at Swayambhunath (“Monkey Temple”):
A Nepali Buddha Stupa and temple complex located on a hill looking down on Kathmandu city. Walk around the complex taking in the sights and checking out the views of the city. Be sure to watch your stuff as the monkey’s running around the temple are known for trying to steal people’s things.
Hike to Changunarayan temple from Bhaktapur:
The seventh and least visited UNESCO holy site in the Kathmandu Valley. Changunarayan temple is a bit off the beaten tourist path. The painted colors on the temple are very unique, and it is the oldest temple in the Kathmandu Valley. It really is worth the trip out there. It is a half day hike from Bhaktapur if you are spending time there. Walk until the busy streets turn to dirt roads through farms and little rural homes before the final climb up a big stone staircase in the trees.
Take a cooking class:
In Nepal you’ll quickly fall in love with the incredible flavors in all the food. Everything is made from scratch and with such high quality spices everything tastes so flavorful, you will soon be wanting to learn how to make it at home. A great way to learn how to bring the flavors home and a good cultural experience is to take a cooking class. A lot of classes will teach you how to make momos, which there is definetly a bit of an art to folding them up and making them pretty. I did a fun class that lasted a few hours, we went to the local market to get a few goods for our meal. We learned to make soup and momos and then got to eat them and bring receipes home.
Wander the busy streets of Thamel:
Dip through the alleys, find cozy courtyards to hang out on, take in all the sights and smells of the busy district of Thamel. A popular tourist spot and therefore where a lot of the locals live to be close to their shops, etc. Thamel is always happening no matter what time of day.
Go for a hike in the Kathmandu Valley:
You don’t have to climb mountains or through high up passes to go for some beautiful hikes in Nepal. Enjoy some lower elevation day hikes in the Kathmandu Valley. You can see many of the Himalayan ranges on clear days from different points in the valley. On the trails you’ll be able tto walk right through little villages and agricultural terraces and pass by many beautiful lesser known temples.
Eat your heart out on Nepali Tali plates:
The standard meal for any time of day in Nepal are the tali plates. No trip to Nepal is complete without trying a few Tali platters. Each restaurant and guesthouse has their own version with different sides and flavors. Try as many as you can or want.
Have a beer or coffee on the rooftops:
There are so many great rooftop restaurants and bars in and around Kathmandu. It is a great way to sit, relax and take in the sights and hustle and bustle from above. Many of the major sites and durbar squares are surrouded by open air dining options so you can see the temples and bustling squares while you eat.
Relax at the Garden of Dreams:
Tucked away in Thamel, this garden is a great reprieve from the chaos. It is surprising how quiet and peaceful it is even though you’re right in Thamel still. Wander through the garden and pick a place to sit and hang out for a while, there is also a nice little cafe where you can have drinks and snacks.
Take a flight to see Everest (if you don’t hike there):
The Everest Region is a popular trekking area in Nepal, but if you don’t make it there or trek in another region, you can still see Mount Everest by flying past it. There are helicopter tours, which are quite expensive, but land at Base Camp and give you a chance to see the mountain up close. There are also daily flights past Everest for tourists, each person gets a window seat on the small plane, so don’t worry about having to fight someone for the window seat. They also invite you into the cockpit for a moment to take a few photos and serve champagne on the flight back. It is a relaxing and fun way to see the Himalayas and Everest if you don’t hike there or even if you do and just want to see the mountain from a different perspective.
Do a daytrip to Namo Buddha:
An elaborate and beautiful Monastery in the hills above Kathmandu, Namo Buddha is pretty spectacular. You can go inside the Monastery and see all the detail architecture and painting, but the best view is seeing the red and gold of the Monastery against the Himalayan backdrop. Visit in the morning when the chance of it being clear is better.
Learn about Newari culture in Kirtipur:
Kirtipur is the oldest city in the Kathmandu Valley and located about 5km south west of Kathmandu. It is home to the Newari people, the natives of this area, who have their own distinct culture. You can wander through the village and see all the extremely old buildings. There is also a beautiful ancient temple. Then just outside the village is the Newari cultural center where you can go eat traditional Newari food. It is a beautiful venue where you sit on cushions on the floor, you can try many different dishes, and watch some of the food being prepared. I highly recommend the polenta pancakes and the rice wine.
Walk through ancient artifacts at the Patan Museum:
The Patan Museum located at the Patan Durbar Square is filled with incredible traditional and relgious artifacts from Nepal’s history. It is also an ancient building and has information on the building and planning of the Durbar square and other holy sites in the region. It is a really beautiful place and a great way to learn about Nepali history and culture.
