One week exploring Sao Miguel Island in the Azores, Portugal
A lush green island with incredible scenery, beaches, hiking and delicious food and wine.
The Azores Islands are absolutely the perfect vacation spot if you want a little bit of everything. They are a series of Portuguese islands located quite a ways off mainland Europe in the Atlantic Ocean. Sao Miguel Island is the largest island and home to the largest city in the Azores Ponta Delgada. It is also the best place to visit if you are going there off season, as we did in February, because many services will be closed on the smaller islands where tourism more or less shuts down in the winter.
On Sao Miguel and the rest of the islands there is amazing scenery. Much of the scenery can be accessed just by driving around. There is also a wide range of hikes, beaches, hot springs, and excellent food and wine. My sister and I did this as a family trip with our dad who does not get around great and it was a fantastic place for that because he could see so much without going far from the car. We felt like a week was a great amount of time to spend on Sao Miguel. We were able to see and do almost everything on our list, without feeling rushed and still having plenty of time to relax.
Getting there/around:
Getting to Sao Miguel from the United States is actually very easy, there are even direct flight options from the East Coast. We flew in on a direct flight from Boston to Ponta Delgada that was less than 6 hours long with SATA Airlines. It took about five minutes to get though customs and another five minutes of waiting to get our bags. It was great to not have to wait in long lines like you can flying in/out of mainland Europe. There are also regular flights to and from mainland Portugal to Sao Miguel and other islands in the Azores if you are visiting as part of a Europe trip. If you can I would advise flying into the Azores first, so you can take advantage of the quick immigration and then continue on to mainland Portugal/Europe from Sao Miguel if possible with your itinerary.
For getting around while you are there I recommend renting a car. It isn’t super expensive and the island is not heavily populated, so it is pretty easy driving even for someone unfamiliar with the area. It was a super comfortable and casual place to drive and gives you so much more flexibility. If you don’t want to do that though, you could stay in Ponta Delgada and book tours to sites around the island.
Where to stay:
Many people simply base themselves out of Ponta Delgada because it is central on the island and possible to visit most every where just by day trips. If doing that I would recommend renting a vacation rental, so you have a little more space and the potential to make some meals yourself. In my week there we moved around and stayed in Ponta Delgada, Furnas, and Riberia Grande. I really enjoyed spending some time outside the main city and it made many of the hikes, viewpoints, and hot springs more accessible. All three of these communities are large enough to have several hotel options, however if you want to stay outside of these towns you will probably have to go for vacation rentals, there are not many hotels outside the islands bigger communities.
Day 1: Arrive Ponta Delgada
After settling in walk around the city to get your bearings. You can stop by the main square and church, walk along the waterfront, visit Jardim Botanico Antonio Borges and Jardin Botanico Jose do Canto, and just admire the cute streets. All these sites are within walking distance of each other and easily accessed by foot if you are staying in or around the city center. After working up an appetite walking around stop at one of the many cute restaurants for food and a drink. We went to Louvre Michaelense Bar Bistro and got a delicious cheese platter and wonderful sangria, I highly recommend eating here for at least one meal. It is also a nice spot to sit and enjoy a glass of wine or cocktail and people watch if some of the group is not up for as much walking and exploring.
In the afternoon jump in the car and head up to one of the island’s pineapple plantations. There are several in Ponta Delgada. I recommend Arruda Plantation to see how the small Azores pineapples grow. They have green houses you can go in at all the different phases of pineapple growth. They also have a great little gift shop on site where you can try pineapple liquor and other pineapple products, which you can buy and bring home.
We stopped by Gruta do Carvão, the under-city caves, to make reservations for a tour the next morning. They have just a short walking tour to see the entrance to the caves a few times a day, but should be reserved in advance. Or if you want to do a long tour that involves spending a few hours crawling through a large portion of the cave tunnels check in to see if they have any while you are in town.
Last we went to dinner at a cute local spot just down the street from our airbnb called Tixico. It had delicious food and wine and had very authentic vibe. Nearby is the restaurant Michel, which is super highly rated, but you should definitely have reservations if you are set on going there. It is usually booked up, so we were not able to go. I also have heard great things about the bar at the Azor (Octant) Hotel, which is also just down the street from there.
Day 2: Drive to Sete Ciades & the western coast
Drive up the mountain, lots of view points to stop along the way. The first big stop is Miradouro da Grota do Inferno. Unfortunately it was still very fogged in when we were there and rainy, so we didn’t spend too much time waiting to see if the weather would clear. This is not uncommon, the views here can be rather elusive especially in the winter like when we were there.
Head down to the next Miradouro da Vista do Rei where the chances of views are greater because you are a little lower and can get out of the fog. Despite it being cloudy up top we were able to see the lakes from here. Then continue down towards Sete Ciades. There is one more great Miradouro to stop at, just keep your eyes out for the signs, all the viewpoints are very well marked and have numerous parking spots. There are limited restaurants in Sete Ciades especially in the off season, but we stopped at this place called Green Love along the lake. The food was good and the waiter was very sweet and attentive. After our meal we walked along the lake and through town a bit, before getting back in the car to head to the coast.
There are tons of stops along the coast on the way back towards Ponta Delgada, so you just have to pick a few. We stopped at Mosteiros Point to check out the beautiful sea stacks and then at the ponta da ferraria, which are some natural hot springs right on the ocean. However we did not go in the hot springs, in February it is quite cold and the tide was high, so it was filled with cool ocean water. A couple people did go in and said it was warm, but certainly not hot. In the summer when there is less surf and it is all together warmer out, these are supposed to very nice to soak in. The walk along the coast here is very beautiful though, so even if you can’t soak I enjoyed the views.
Day 3: Lago de Fogo and drive to Furnas
Since the weather was clear we didn’t want to miss a day with good views of Lago de Fogo. We headed out of the city and up into the hills stopping at many of the view points, it is les than an hour drive from Ponta Delgada. There are many parking lots along the road, so you can safely get out and take pictures, stop at any or all of them for a multitude of views of the lakes and surrounding island.
After the major stopping point we turned around and headed back out to the south coast of the island, but the road also continues down to Riberia Grande. On the coast we stopped at Bar Caloura for lunch. A super cute little spot right on the water tucked in a tiny cove, with a light at the end of the rock and a pool for swimming in the warmer months. After we ate an amazing seafood platter for lunch we wandered around the area before getting back in the car. In the summer a swim would be nice, but this time of year the pools are closed and it would been quite cold.
Then we continued along the coast and turned off the highway to head up the hill to visit Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz, an incredibly beautiful old church surrounded by green pastures and overlooking vast views of the Atlantic. There are incredible views from the top of Vila Franca do Campo a small islet off Sao Miguel. The church itself is also gorgeous. You can walk up the beautiful staircase for even better views and look inside the building.
Then head to Furnas and check in to your hotel or airbnb. Be ready this is a windy section of road. That evening go to Poca da Dona Beija for soak in the hot springs before cleaning up and heading to dinner. The pools are along a river some feel like you are soaking in the jungle even though you are right on the edge of town. Be warned the pools are heavy in iron and other minerals, so you will want a dark colored swimsuit so it doesn’t get stained orange. There is a small fee to enter the pools and it is good for two hours. There are nice changing rooms and bathrooms on site, so do not worry about being ready before you get there.
After being fully relaxed we enjoyed dinner at a place called A Terra Furnas, which is located in the Octant Hotel. It was a little higher priced than a local spot would be, but the food was wonderful and it has a fun vibe. I got an amazing wood fired pizza, with the thinnest crust I have ever experienced.
Traveling in Europe with someone who doesn’t walk well can be difficult because streets are narrow and it can be difficult to find close by parking, so we ended up selecting restaurants at hotels frequently because they generally had parking outside. Just a helpful tip if you are also traveling with someone who can’t walk far.
Day 4: Hiking & The Caldeiras
The next morning we left our dad to relax and headed back towards the coast for a hike that would take us all the way to the shore of Lagoa do Fogo. It was a beautiful hike up along farm roads through forests and past old buildings. The views of rolling hills get better as you continue up. Then you follow an aqueduct before popping out to beautiful grasslands and then the lake. It was a fantastic hike. I highly recommend this if you only have time for one good hike. It is called the PRC02 SMI - Lagoa do Fogo beach trail on Alltrails. There is also great information on this hike and others on the visitors website here.
After our hike we went back to Furnas and headed into downtown and visited the calderas, which are steaming geyers and pools located right in the heart of the town. Just about a block away is Caldeiras e Vulcoes restaurant which serves food cooked in the steam of the caldeiras. Trying this style of food is a must while in Furnas.
Day 5: Furnas Lake & multiple hot springs
Get up and walk around Furnas Lake after a cup of coffee and a snack. It is about a four mile loop that is flat. It will pass by a beautiful old church and the calderias near the lake in addition to having beautiful views of the lake. It is a great way to start the day.
Then head to the Octant Hotel Furnas where you can purchase a couple hour pass to use the on site pools which are fed by the thermal waters. Although you can soak in other hot springs in the area for cheaper, this felt so luxurious and was a wonderful experience. I would highly recommend it, just make sure you go in the morning if you are there on a weekend and want to try and get a day pass. They have outdoor and indoor pools, including a cold plunge, and sauna rooms as well. We loved the tiled warm room. This is also a hotel, so if you stay there you will get access to the pools without any additional fee.
For the afternoon head to the botanical gardens to walk around before another hot spring dip. Terra Nostra is home to the gardens and a large very orange mineral pool. There are changing facilities on site, but it can be quite busy. Keep in mind the pool and garden are only open until 4 for public use. If you stay at the Terra Nostra Hotel you can use the pool more privately after it closes to the public, which is definitely a fun perk.
Day 6: Drive the windy roads of the eastern side of the island
Take one last stroll through the town of Furnas before getting in the car to catch the beautiful morning lighting. First head back out to the south coast for coffee and pastries at a harbor side cafe. Then walk out the breakwater and watch local fishermen.
Continue down the highway and get off to head down to Faial stopping at Miradouro do Pico dos Bodes, which was one of my favorite viewpoints on the island and is definitely worth the short drive off the main road. When you arrive in Faial just stroll through the town, along the rocky beach, or swim at the pools. It is a pretty sleepy town in February, but would imagine in summer it is quite busy. If you are up for a hike the Salto de Prego hike outside Faial was highly recommended.
Continue down the highway which is especially curvy for this next section. There are many places to pull over and take in the views, one of our favorites was Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego,, which has pretty gardens and great views of the ocean. There is a very iconic light house in Porto do Nordeste, you can stop a couple miradouros to see it from up above, or park at the top of the hill and walk down to the lighthouse to see it up close. Do NOT drive down the lighthouse the road is SO steep and pretty narrow. Yes we found this out the hard way after seeing some cars down there and thinking it was okay. We were not sure our rental car would make it back up and there was definitely more than one place where it almost did not. Leave going down this hill by car to the locals only. Many people walk down to the lighthouse, but just be prepared it is a steep climb back up to the car. You’ll have great views of the ocean along the way though.
Another great stop just shortly off the highway as you get closer to the north end of the island is Ribeira dos Caldeiroes, which has some very short walks to stunning waterfalls. These are easily accessible for someone who doesn’t walk too well and isn’t up for a hike to some of the other waterfalls on the island. Last stop before your next hotel room is the Gorreana tea plantation. There you can taste tea, enjoy treats from the cafe, get a quick tour and there are trails through the tea terraces. You can hike anything from a short wander to five miles for a full loop. Be aware this is a very busy stop even in the winter.
After a long day of driving and exploring we were very glad to arrive at our airbnb, which had a great outdoor courtyard with a small pool. It was nice to sit out in the garden and watch the sunset with a glass of wine in hand. Riberia Grande is the next biggest town on the island after Ponta Delgada and very centrally located. It would be a great base for spending a whole week exploring if you did not want to move around or stay right in the city. For dinner we went to Tuka Tula Beach Bar, which is located a short drive from downtown along one of the main beaches. The food was very original and delicious. All of us loved our food and our waiter was very friendly and nice to visit with.
Day 7: Waterfall hike & forest hot springs
Head up into the hills a little bit to the Calderias of Riberia Grande. From here you will start your hike to Salta de Cabrito, which is a varied trail that is beautiful even on a rainy day on Sao Miguel. It follows a pipeline, then cuts into a forest before putting you on to a metal raised trail above the gorge. This is a super unique hike. You end up above the waterfall then hike down many stairs for great views of the waterfall. You can walk this as a loop so you don’t have go back up all those stairs and follow roads and a series of little trails, which is well marked. All trails and the visitors website linked above have information on how to do this trail.
Back in the city grab a good lunch and wander the town a bit including walking along the waterfront to help digest that lunch before you head to some more hot springs. Now head back towards the hills to visit Caldeira Velha. There are short beautiful trails leading up the pools and a small interpretive center you can visit even if you don’t want to go in the hot springs. There are a few hot pools and one cooler pool with a waterfall that flows in to it. This is popular stop on the island, so the pools can be a little crowded, but they are beautiful and worth the visit. If you really want to avoid people going right when it opens is probably better than visiting in the afternoon.
For our last dinner on the island we went to Alabote in Riberia Grande, which had delicious upscale food. I got a uniquely seared Tuna platter unlike anything I have even heard of being served anywhere else.
Day 8: Last minute sightseeing and shopping
The last day, drive the part of the coast you have not and then head back to Ponta Delgada. Grab a good lunch and enjoy a cocktail or glass of wine. We went back to the Grand Hotel Acores, where we had dinner before because it was so beautiful. We did not stay at this hotel, but it was a beautiful upscale place and when I checked rates for February it was a little over 100 Euros per night, which I would say is a wonderful deal. Wander the city to pick up any last minute souvenirs to bring home. I picked up some beautiful tins of fish, Portuguese pottery serving dishes, and a bottle of Azores wine. I wish I could have also brought home a whole case of cheese.
