A week of adventures in the Kathmandu Valley Nepal
How to get there:
Getting to Nepal from the United States: You can basically go either way around the globe, they both take about the same amount of time. No matter what you do it’s going to take a long time to get there. The best deals with the least number of flights I have seen are through, Singapore, Dubai, Doha and Istandbul. Both times I have been to Nepal I have found the best deals flying from the west coast through Singapore on Singapore Airlines. They also offer free stopovers in Singapore, which I have taken advantage of both times to help break up the flying. More on that in my Singapore stopover guide.
Once in Kathmandu getting around the valley is most comfortable by private car, which can be set up by hotels or guide agencies. However for a local and much cheaper experience you can ride the local buses to most of the major destinations.
When to go:
Trekking season in Nepal is in the spring late March- mid may or the fall October/November. If you plan on going trekking then it is best to visit during either of these times. Monsoon season is in the summer and many treks are inaccessible and/or very dangerous because of landslide risks and even just getting around the country on main roads can be difficult. The winter is also not great for trekking because of snow and avalanche risks. However if you are only visiting the Kathmandu Valley or lower elevation areas, the timing could be more flexible if you are okay dealing with heavy rains or colder temps. I have always visited in late October and November. The weather has always been very dry, warm at lower elevations, and cool-cold at higher elevations. Kathmandu is about 5,000 ft in elevation, so it does get cool at night especially as you get towards the end of November and winter is setting in.
Where to stay:
The best place to stay when you arrive in Kathmandu is the Thamel area, which is a busy tourist area, right in the heart of Kathmandu. It has the most options for hotels, services, tour agencies, and little shops selling everything you could ever need. It is a great place to base yourself out of especially before a trek because you can pick up any gear you need and there are a lot of trekking agencies in the area if you still need to find one of those. There are lots of western amenities, which is a nice way to ease yourself into life in Nepal if it is your first time there.
Budget Hotels Thamel: Shangrila Boutique Hotel, Mount Annapurna Guest House, and Zostel Kathmandu
Midrange Hotels Thamel: Arushi Boutique Hotel, Kantipur Temple House, and Kumari Boutique Hotel
Luxury Hotels Thamel: The Dwarika’s Hotel, Baber Mahal Vilas and Hotel Mulberry
If you want to stay out of the hustle and bustle somewhat, but still in Kathmandu city I recommend the Boudanath area or Patan. To get truly out of the city see the sections on Baktapur and Nagarkot for recommend hotels in the valley.
Day 1 - 3: KATHMANDU CITY
Stay: Arushi Hotel Thamel
DAY 1: EXPLORE THAMEL & KATHMANDU DURBAR SQUARE
Whether you just arrived in Nepal or are just returning to Kathmandu from a trek, it is always nice to have the first day be a little more chill, so today is a day of some sightseeing, but also plenty of just relaxing. In the morning walk through the busy streets of Thamel down to Kathmandu Durbar Square. When you arrive, hire a guide, there will be plenty hanging around the entrance. It is possible to walk around without a guide, but I recommend hiring one because you will learn so much more and it is easier to figure out where is okay to access as a tourist and what areas may be off limits. The guides generally don’t have a set rate, you just pay what you feel it was worth at the end. You can easily spend a couple hours if you take your time walking through the courtyards of the Durbar Square checking out the intricate carvings on the temples, old palace, and visiting the museum. You may even get to see the Kumari (the living goddess) make an appearance through her window.
Then wander the streets of Thamel checking out the local shops and doing any errands you may need to complete. Stop by the Garden of Dreams when you need a break from the craziness of Kathmandu. Wander the gardens and stop and sit for a while, just enjoying the beauty. There is a nice little cafe in the gardens you can eat lunch at. Then stop by one of the many massage places to work out those sore muscles from flying or trekking. We loved Zen Spa and Healing Center, tucked down a little alley in Thamel, but there are many options. After a relaxing massage grab an afternoon drink at Sam’s bar when it opens at four. It is a fun second floor bar where many climbers and backpackers hang out and sign the walls. Then head back to the hotel for a quiet rooftop meal with great views of the city or try one of the countless other restaurants in the area.
DAY 2: KATHMANDU UNESCO SITES
Get a big dose of culture and religion and hire a guide/car for a private tour of Kathmandu’s major UNESCO sites. Swayambhu (also known as Monkey Temple) and Boudhanath are both Buddhist stupas. Pashupatinath is an important Hindu temple and holy site, where open cremations along the riverside are performed. I highly recommend hiring a guide for your visit to all these locations, especially Pashupatinath where it is great to have someone explain the cremation process for you. I have learned so much more than I would walking around on my own and learn something new every time I visit. It is also great to have a guide to help figure out where it is appropriate to walk, stand and whether you need to remove your shoes to enter certain areas, etc, so that you are respectful of local customs at these holy sites. A lot of guides will recommend you stop for lunch at Boudhanath because there are lots of great rooftop restaurants where you can eat while admiring views of the stupa. It is possible to do all three of these sites and Kathmandu Durbar Square in one day and many group tours do it that way, however if you have time I would recommend separating at least Kathmandu Square on to a different day so you can have more time in each place and just have a little shorter of a day.
DAY 3: KIRTIPUR AND PATAN
There are many tours that do trips like this, but we again hired a private driver and guide so we could move at our own pace. In the morning get picked up at your hotel and enjoy the scenery as you drive to Kirtipur. Spend a couple hours walking around one of the oldest cities in the Kathmandu valley, checking out the old buildings and temples. Then stop by the famous Newari food center for lunch and try some different style food from what you typically see at Nepali restaurants, including polenta cakes, rice wine, and others
Next head to Patan, one of the three ancient kingdoms, and get a tour of Patan Durbar Square. Admire the Newari culture that gives this area a little bit of a different feel and the incredible bronze work it is famous for. After the tour have your guide and driver leave you here and you can walk around outside the main square a bit before heading to an evening cooking class. We did an Airbnb experience with a fun young couple at the hotel they owned and managed. We went to the market and then learned how to make momos and soup, which we then enjoyed on their beautiful rooftop.
I have never stayed in Patan, but it is also a great option if you want to be in Kathmandu city, but outside of Thamel. Our host for our cooking class showed us some of the rooms at their guest house Lumbini Heritage Home and they were nice and clean. It’s close to Patan Durbar Square on a nice quiet little courtyard park. It would be a great place to stay after a trek, so you were close to the airport, but away from the crowded streets of Thamel.
Day 4 - 5 NAGARKOT
Stay: Hotel Mystic Mountain
It is possible to just spend one night here if you are on a tighter time crunch and what most other guests we met did. If you have the time I really recommend spending two nights because one morning was not as clear of a view, so the second morning we were able to have a more clear view of the mountains and it is just a beautiful place to relax after the chaos of the city.
DAY 4: DRIVE TO NAGARKOT
Head up into the hills above the city for a couple nights of relaxing and enjoying the views of the Himalayas. I recommend hiring a private car to drive you, but there is also a local bus. I recommend arriving around lunch time and eat a meal out on the deck of hotel Mystic Mountain if your room is not yet ready. After get settled into your room, then head to the pool and hot tub for a nice dip or a stroll around the gardens on the property. Catch the sunset from your deck before heading up the dining room, which offers hot pot, an al la carte menu, and a dinner buffet.
DAY 5: RELAX & EXPLORE NAGARKOT
The next day you can hike up the Nagarkot tower for more views, it is recommended at sunrise, but the view from your room at the hotel will also be fantastic, so I don’t think it is necessary to get up that early. Enjoy the sunrise from bed! Then later on you can walk around the hills a bit and hike the tower, or simply just relax at the hotel. All the hotel rooms have a balcony and they offer room service, so Mystic Mountain is a wonderful place to just spend the day relaxing. You can enjoy the spa and arrange yoga classes as well.
Day 6 - 8 BHAKTAPUR
Stay: Mila Guesthouse
DAY 6: NAGARKOT TO BHAKTAPUR HIKE & DRIVE
Enjoy the sunrise views and breakfast at the hotel in Nagarkot before meeting your guide to hike part of the way down to Bhaktapur. It is possible to hike the entire way, but we opted to just do the first section, which our guide said was the prettiest and then catch a ride for the later portion which I believe mostly follows roads. It's a pretty downhill hike through the woods and small villages. Once you reach the bigger towns, a driver will pick you up and drive you the rest of the way to your hotel in Bhaktapur. It is possible to do this hike without a guide, but I certainly recommend one, there are so many little paths it would be easy to get lost on your own. Guides can also arrange the transfer of bags and part way pick up from the driver, making it easy on you.
After you drop your bags you can take a tour of the Bhaktapur Durbar Square, the area’s temples and pottery square. After that relax and catch the sunset from a rooftop restaurant or at the guesthouse. There are lots of great rooftop and second level restaurants surrounding the squares in Baktapur where you can enjoy the sites while eating and drinking. Because Bhaktapur is not as touristy as Thamel there is a more limited restaurant selection and mostly Nepali food options.
DAY 7: VISIT NAMO BUDDHA MONESTARY
The next day enjoy breakfast on the roof of the guest house and then get picked up and head to Namo Buddha Monastery. If it is a clear day you will want to stop and take in the views a few times on the way up. You get incredible views of many different Himalayan ranges. When you arrive walk around the incredible Monastery, nonbelievers can go inside to enjoy the incredibly detailed painting and architecture. Be sure to walk up to the overlook of the Monastery and surrounding Himalayas.
From the overlook you will begin the hike back down towards Bhaktapur. First stop is the small original Namo Buddha temple just a little below the new much more ornate Monastery. Then the hike continues down a dirt road to a small community with beautiful mustard fields. There your driver can pick you up and take you to Bhaktapur or you can continue hiking. I recommend stopping at another temple along the river.
Once you return you can spend the afternoon relaxing and wandering the streets of Bhaktapur. Go chill at restaurant with a fun view or browse all the little local shops for souvenirs to bring back home. There are lots of shops with handicrafts geared towards tourists especially along the main squares, but it is also fun to check out the local market streets. I brought home some fun kitchen utensils from the locals stores.
DAY 8: HIKE TO CHANGU NARAYAN TEMPLE
Hike up to Changu Narayan Temple for a good walk before you hop on a flight that evening and a chance to see the seventh UNESCO Heritage Site in the Kathmandu Valley. At first you will be walking along busy roads, but soon you will feel more like you are out in the country. The last part of the trail is steps through a forest before you reach the gate below Changu Narayan. After viewing the temple, you can walk around some small shops that are set up before hiking back or there may be a taxi dropping someone else off that you can get a ride back down with.
We were very fortunate to have built a friendship with our guide Namaraj, who organized all our tours and was our guide for everything in the Kathmandu valley besides Kathmandu Durbar Square. He invited us over to his family home for dinner before we went to the airport late that evening. It was a wonderful experience and one of the things we loved about using one local guide for most of our tours. We really got to know him and it was a great experience to meet his family and see his home. The Nepali people are some of the most kind and welcoming people I have ever met. Every person seems legitimately glad to have you in their country and encourages you to come back and bring all your friends and family.
